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OREGON TRAIL-BEAR LAKE
SCENIC BYWAY
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Southeast Idaho, from
the Utah border, through Soda Springs and west to McCammon, has been traversed by
travelers since before recorded history. First by various tribes of natives on
their way to “Po-Ha-Ba,” the healing waters of the hot springs at Lava Hot
Springs, later by fur trappers, then emigrants on the Oregon Trail. The Union
Pacific Railroad opened the area to freight and passengers circa 1880, McCammon
was a stop on “The Gold Road,” the stagecoach and supply road from Salt Lake City to the gold mines in Montana.
In 1849
Benoni Hudspeth pioneered a cut-off on the Oregon Trail, west from Soda Springs
to a point south of Malta, Idaho. This route, eliminating the trek north to
Ft. Hall, saw extensive use. Highway 30, between Lava Hot Springs and
McCammon, parallels a stretch of this important portion of the Oregon Trail.
Over 100
years ago, in 1903, in the first coast-to-coast auto trip, Horatio Jackson
traveled from Pocatello to Soda Springs on the roads developed from these
trails.
Idaho Byways Oregon Trail/Bear Lake Scenic Byway with
interactive map.
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1. Bear Lake
Bear Lake is often called
The Caribbean of the Rockies for its intense turquoise
blue water. Bear Lake is home to several species of fish
found nowhere else in the world, such as the Bonneville
Cisco. During pioneer times, Bear Lake was the site of
Mountain Men Rendezvous' and fur trading. Year round
recreation includes swimming, boating, fishing, hiking,
biking, and snowmobiling. |
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2. Gutzon Borglum Monument
Gutzon Borglum was a prolific American sculptor best
know for his presidents' sculptures on Mount Rushmore,
South Dakota. Borglum was born in St. Charles, Idaho in
1867. His marble head sculpture of Abraham Lincoln is on
display in the Capitol Rotunda. Two stone monuments
honoring Borglum are located in St. Charles. |
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3. North Beach State Park
At 5,900 feet elevation, North Beach
State Park offers offers over two miles of sandy beach
for day use. The park sits on the north end of Bear Lake
which is 20 miles long and 8 miles wide with half of the
lake in Idaho and half in Utah. The lake is a water
sports Mecca attracting boaters, water skiers, and beach
lovers from all over the country. The gradual slope of
the lake bottom provides an enormous swimming area. Ramps
are available for boaters and water skiers who want to
enjoy the water, too. Anglers can try for a native
cutthroat or lake trout in the summer. In the winter,
they can come back with buckets and nets when the
Bonneville cisco run. The fish is found nowhere else on
Earth.
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4.
Minnetonka Cave
Minnetonka is the largest limestone cave in the
state. Located near the town of St. Charles, the cave is
a geologic wonder dating back nearly 320 million years.
Breathtaking passageways extending more than 2000 feet
into the hill side contain nine rooms of fascinating
stalactites, stalagmites and banded travertine. |
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5.
Bear Lake National Wildlife Refuge
Established in 1968, the refuge encompasses
18,000 acres of marsh, open water and grasslands. The
refuge provides a vital nesting area for a variety of
waterfowl such as Mallards, and Sandhill Cranes.
Photo by Jim Parker |
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5.
Paris Tabernacle & Historic District
Paris has a remarkable architectural legacy. One
of which is the Paris Tabernacle, a Romanesque Revival
style red sandstone church built between 1884 and 1889.
Other architecturally significant local buildings include
the Paris Hotel, the Pendry Drug, and the Bear Lake
Country Courthouse |
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6.
Oregon-California Trail Center
The National Oregon-California Trail Center is
located in Montpelier. The center has on display the
"Living History," a dramatic recreation of the pioneers'
journey from Missouri to Clover Creek. Located on the
actual Clover Creek Encampment site, the center offers
visitors a unique opportunity to experience pioneer life
as it was more than a hundred years ago. |
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7.
Oregon-California Trail Portal
Emigrants by the thousands entered present day
eastern Idaho at this location traveling along the
Oregon-California Trail. Emigrants on the trail
encountered Big Hill, thought to be the steepest and
longest descent found on the trip west. Wheel ruts are
still visible today from the locking of wagon wheels.
Photo by Jim Parker |
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8.
Georgetown Relief Society Hall
This small log and wood frame building over 125
years old, is listed on the National Register of Historic
Places. In Georgetown’s early settlement, it functioned
as a local chapel, schoolhouse and general meeting hall.
For many years it was a focal point for the female
society of this small community |
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9.
Bear River Overlook
This location along US 30 provides a spectacular
view of the Bear River. Sherman Peak, at an elevation of
9,682 feet, can be seen in the distance. The 300-mile
river is one of the most circuitous in the United States.
Originating on the north slope of the Uinta Mountains in
Utah, Bear River travels north into Wyoming and then
curves south in a horseshoe through Idaho and back into
Utah and the Great Salt Lake. |
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10.
Sulphur Springs
Sulphur Springs was noted in numerous early
explorer and emigrant diaries. It was the first of
several notable springs encountered in the Soda Springs
area. When the wind is right, the distinct rotten egg
odor can still be easily detected along Highway 30 east
of town. The cold water and bare ground continues to emit
sulphur smelling gas in a bubbling "plip-plop" manner
reminiscent of hot pots in Yellowstone Park. Travel one
mile east of US 30 on the Sulphur Canyon road to the
first road junction. A National Park Service interpretive
sign is one hundred yards east on the left hand
"primitive" road. |
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11.
Soda Springs Geyser
Soda Springs was a landmark on the Oregon Trail
attracting pioneers to its mineral springs. The town also
boasts having the world's only captive geyser. On
November 30, 1937 in an attempt to find a hot water
source for a local swimming pool, a well driller set free
the natural geyser at a depth of 317 feet. |
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New Byway Extension |
Take the 55
mile Scenic Byway Extension to McCammon from the Soda Springs park. Set odometer
to 0.0 miles. |
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12. Portal Entry for
Oregon Trail-Bear Lake Scenic Byway
Mile 0. Located along US 30, in the middle of the
block of Corrigan Park, this site provides information
about the Pioneer Historic Byway, the Oregon Trail - Bear
Lake Scenic Byway, things to see and do in the Park and
other parts of the community, information on phosphate
mining, the Caribou National Forest, and maps of the
region. |
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13. Dinkey Engine
- Soda Springs City Park
Mile 0.1, 1st traffic light. Head north ½ blocks
on right-hand side of the street, the Dinkey Engine was used in 1924 to
build the Alexander Dam west of Soda Springs. It lay at the bottom of the
reservoir until 1976 when it was removed and restored by Union Pacific
Railroad.
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14. Wagon Box
Grave
Fairview Cemetery in Soda Springs - Mile 0.2, Located in the Fairview Cemetery one block west of downtown Soda Springs, the grave marks the burial site
of an Oregon-bound emigrant family allegedly killed by Indians and buried
here in their wagon box by other emigrants. |
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15. Morrisite Settlement
Mile 0.6, Access this area by turning south on 3rd , West going one block off US 30 and
turning into the back of the LDS Church parking lot. The story of
Soda Springs’ first settlement in 1863 is told on interpretive signs to be
installed in 2006 and with a panoramic view of the abandoned town site area.
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16. Camp Connor
Historical Marker
Mile 1.5, on Hwy. 30 heading west, left- hand side, great
pullout area to view Alexander Reservoir. Interpretive signs about General Patrick
Connor and the part he played in protecting emigrants on the Oregon-California
Trail are also located off of 3rd West in the LDS Church parking lot.
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17. Natural Area
Mile 2.0, one
mile west of Soda Springs is property held by the Idaho Transportation Department as a
Natural Area. The Oregon-California Trail emigrants passed
through this area along the banks of the Bear River.
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18.
Oregon Trail
Marina on Alexander Reservoir
Mile 3.0 on the left, off Hwy.
30. Oregon Trail Park and wagon ruts, located on the Bear River.
The
marina provides water recreation, fishing, restrooms, and picnic facilities. View actual wagon ruts left by the Oregon Trail emigrants.
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19. Alexander Power Plant and Points of interest
Mile 6.0 on the left. One of several electric generation plants along the Bear River providing power and irrigation. The Bear River once flowed
northward into the Snake River. Lava flows diverted
the Bear River into the Great Salt Lake. |
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20. Alexander
Townsite remains
Mile 7.6, Heading west on the right side of the highway. The town
site no longer exists but at one time there were over one hundred homes where
workers and their families lived while building the Dam in the very early
1900’s. Turn into the dam site left off US 30 approximately four miles west of
Soda Springs. Historic information is provided at this site. |
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21a. Sheep
Rock
Mile 7.8, Heading west on the left side of the highway - Rocky outcrop
above the Bear River where the river turns south and Oregon trail departed
to the northwest towards Chesterfield and Fort Hall.
This
was an important landmark to Oregon Trail emigrants. |
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21b. First
Division of Oregon-California Trail via Hudspeth Cutoff
Mile 8.3, Heading west on the right side of the road. |
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22. Volcanic
Cinder Cones
8.7 miles, turn right at blinker light toward
City of Bancroft. A
remnant of volcanic activity and a prominent feature to Oregon Trail users.
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23. City of Bancroft
Mile 17.9, Turnoff to Chesterfield town site
24. Chesterfield town site
Mile 28.2, A Mormon ghost town plus camping and trophy
trout fishing at 24 Mile Reservoir. Just 14 miles off the
proposed route.
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25. Lime Mine and
Brick Factory
Mile 42.1 on the right used for years as a
source of agricultural lime and later brick manufacturing. Remains of
several buildings and foundations present.
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26a. Caribou
Mile 42.8,
on the right Targee National Forest. Access
to Big Springs Campground (7 miles up Pebble Creek Road)
Fishing, Camping, Recreation etc.
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26b. Upper Portneuf
River Sportsman’s Access
Mile 45.4, on the right.
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26c.
Lower Portneuf River Sportsman’s Access
Mile 51.0 on
the right. |
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27. Portneuf River Natural Area
Mile 48.0, both
sides of Blazer Hwy...Beautiful scenery.
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28. Blazer Townsite
Mile 49.0, on the right – Original Settlement |
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29a. City of Lava Hot
Springs
Mile 53, Turn right heading west 1 block to tourist destination.
Idaho’s World Famous Hot Pools
Olympic
Swimming Complex – Built in 1969
Portneuf River tubing, hiking trails, fishing, hunting,
skiing and snowmobiling
Shopping, dining,
night life and Senior Citizen Center
Formerly part of the Fort Hall Indian Reservation. The springs
were sold to U.S. Government, then later ceded to the State
of Idaho.
Owned and operated by the State since 1902. |
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29b. South Bannock
Co. Historical Center & Information Center
Lava Hot Springs walking tour – Mile 53.4, 3
blocks west on right. |
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30. Bob Dempsey’s 1st Campsite
Mile 55, on the left hand side, 1.5 miles out of Lava Hot Springs. |
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31. Portneuf
Wetlands
Mile 57.9, on the right hand side off Highway 30 turn right at Topaz Rd. |
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22.
Hudspeth
Cutoff Landmark – Mile 64.0, left on East Sublette Road drive 1.5 miles and to the left is part of the Hudspeth
Cutoff Trail.
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23.
City of McCammon – Mile 76.4, left over bridge to City of McCammon. |
Idaho Byways page of the Oregon Trail/Bear Lake
Scenic Byway with interactive map.
Idaho Byways page of the Pioneer Historic Byway with
interactive map. |